187.8 miles down, 1,991.3 miles left to go

The Bear Minimum

There is a moment of panic that arises sometime after breakfast, caused by the ever-new realization that you get to do it all over again.  No, you cannot go back to bed.  You have to put your bed into one of many bags.  By now you know where every bag goes and what it’s used for: A bag for the bag, a bag for the pad, a bag for food, stove-bag, pan-bag, trash-bag, water-bag, baggy-bag.  You won’t be returning to this breakfast nook ever again.  A new (temporary) nook awaits you ten to fifteen miles away!  It feels nice to know that everything I need is on my back, many bags in one big bag.  I wonder about human need.  What determines our needs?  What do we really need and what do we only think we need?

In Millinocket, the first trail town, I sent home twenty-three pounds of stuff I didn’t need: long underwear, hat, hoodie, shorts.  I had another shakedown a few days ago at Pleasant Pond Lean-To.  I shared a shelter with 2 bearded and beaming Northbounders (NOBOs); they are at the end of their journeys.  The packs they carried weighed twenty-five pounds and they encouraged me to try and shed as much weight as possible (not counting the weight I’ve already lost from hiking: 10 lbs).  So, much like I did at the AT Lodge with Ole Man Paul, we went through my pack.

NOBO #1: Get rid of those food bags.

NOBO #2: And that carabeaner

NOBO #1: You could detach the top part of your bag and send that home.

NOBO #2: Basically, you want to think radical

Ok, I can do that.  So when I hit the next town (Caratunk, population 177) I sent home a whole 2 lbs! It actually does make a difference when you’re hiking fifteen miles and climbing thousands of feet a day.  It’s funny, I spend all sorts of money to buy stuff it’s gonna take all sorts of money to send home.  This reminds me of the time I tried to check a futon bed as baggage at the airport for a two-week trip to NYC when I was 15.  Live and learn, right?  My bag now weighs thirty-three pounds (that includes about 3 days of food and a litre of water), which is pretty good I think.

After stopping in Caratunk (population 177) for some jalapeno poppers and a beer (and a soak in the hot-tub and a game of pool), we went on toward Stratton.  The people I’ve been hiking with are good people.  All guys so far, I’m praying some women will come along soon! 🙂

From Left: Ben (Pi), Me (in my awesome Joy Division T-shirt, Hot Wing (a trail name, obviously?), Risky Business, Homer

We had to take a little canoe across the Kennebec River.  It is the only part of the entire AT with a moving white blaze.

Notice the white blaze by my foot. It's the only blaze on the trail that moves!

iLife-jacket. High fashion for high tides.

The Pierce Pond Lean-To was amazing.  It is a little three-sided shelter on the lake.  We went swimming and I thought this might be the best summer ever.  There is a man down the path who runs a sporting camp named Tim Harrison. He will make you 12 pancakes, eggs, sausage, coffee and juice for 10 bucks.  We did that in the morning and headed south.

That was a half-order of pancakes.  Normally he makes 12.

After this it was over the Bigelow range.  These are the second highest peaks in Maine–the first being Katahdin, which ahem!, I climbed on the first day. 🙂

The Bigelows were amazing.  Starting off at 1,760 ft they rise to 4,090 feet after seven miles, then dip down to 3, 850 feet and back up to 4,145 feet then back down to 1,350 feet–all within twelve miles.  My knees were KILLING me.  When I got to the top of the first peak, there was a girl-scout troop at the top.  One of them took this picture.

This is the look of aching knees. And the winds were 50 mph up there that day!

When I passed the 2,000 mile mark (meaning I only had 2,000 more miles to go) I met “Pete from Maine”.  This is how he introduced himself: “Let’s shake hands, we just passed the 2,000 mile mark.  My name is Pete from Maine”.  So, in the middle of the Bigelow mountain range we had ourselves a little celebration.

2,000 miles since Georgia

I should have taken a picture of him.  He is about 5′ 6″, white hair and beard and bright, shocking blue eyes.  I need to make it a point to take more pictures of the people I meet up here.  There are so many good people.  One lady, she called herself Playboy, left us some “Trail Magic”.  Trail magic is an amazing thing. People who support hikers or have hiked themselves will leave treats for hikers.  Playboy left us a cooler full of sodas and a box of Snickers and hot-chocolate mix.  They were inside of little bags with hearts drawn on them.  So many people, including myself, were concerned about my safety out here, but honestly, I’ve never felt safer anywhere in the world.  Everyone I’ve met just wants to help me out in any way they can.  Don’t worry, I’ll still be cautious and wary of people, but so far those I’ve come across have proven themselves to be extraordinary.  It gives me faith in human nature.  This is what I need.  I think this is what we all need.

As I get rid of the things I can do without I come to know more and more what I am capable of.  And as I get rid of the extra weight I become capable of more and more.  I’ve come to need less as I realize I have to carry, or commit, to what I’m holding onto every moment.  And what I really need, which is to know (not just believe) people are good, doesn’t weigh a thing.  I found out today that my good friend, Ajeet Matharu, died yesterday in a car accident while in India.  Sitting at a picnic table in Stratton, ME, I cried without reservation.  A woman pulled up in her car and asked me if I was OK.  When I told her why I was crying she got out of the car and hugged me.  She held my hands and prayed with me.  And just magically, she had a white candle and a Native American sage smudge with her.  She gave these to me and told me to light the candle and sage and think about all the good qualities of my friend.  She told me that the love I learned with him will never die.  Then she got in her car and drove away.  I needed that more than anything.

So onward I go, back into the woods tomorrow morning.  I’ll be thinking about all of you, and about Ajeet.  Life is so precious.  We are so lucky to have today.

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  1. #1 by Ra on July 27, 2010 - 4:47 pm

    Oh fuuuuuuuck! I let out a little (internal) cry when I heard about Ajeet! I met him at the election night party–that is so terribly sad! So young! Tragic!

    You are doing good work Kitts and are an inspiration to us all; you’re actually living life as it should be lived, and I can’t help but think that those of us living this sham we call city “life” are just on a hamster wheel or in some kind of mouse trap with no piece of (organic) havarti at the co-op awaiting us! (How’s that for a confused “rodent of choice” mixed metaphor?). Fill in the blank for you favorite existential “trapped” metaphor involving rodents: hamster wheel, mouse trap and the ever popular 90’s grunge hit, “Rat in a Cage”. I’m making up a new one: “Subway rat being watched with horror and fascination by drunk person at 4am.” I think my point was lost.

    How dare you eat pancakes without me? Remember how I kept asking that lady if the syrup was “REAL maple syrup?”! I should be sitting at the other end of that table with the pine trees in the background…you’ve never looked more beautiful and radiant.

    • #2 by andromedakitts on July 28, 2010 - 1:18 pm

      I look like a fat pancake! That’s one thing among many I am loving about this trip: Getting to eat anything and everything without worry. Plus, everything tastes soooo much better after eating dehydrated lentils, for example. 🙂

  2. #3 by Karyn on July 27, 2010 - 5:01 pm

    Hope you amaze me–thanks for your wisdom young lady. We could all stand to learn from the likes of you…mwah.

    • #4 by andromedakitts on July 28, 2010 - 1:16 pm

      K, thanks ma. There is so much to learn in this life. I’ll need to be reminded of my own lessons. I think that is why your reading the blog matters to me. It’s always harder to take our own advice and remember our wisdom. 🙂 I love you.

  3. #5 by Micki on July 27, 2010 - 7:07 pm

    Wow! It’s all so amazing and impressive what you are doing… you post made me cry! Really inspiring! I need to read of your blog, cause I wonder how you are able to write all of this and have access to internet, get your photos up, when you are coming back, etc. But I’m sure you wrote about all of that along the way. Good for you! Thanks for sharing.

    • #6 by andromedakitts on July 28, 2010 - 1:14 pm

      Thank you, Micki. I’m glad you are along for the ride. 🙂

  4. #7 by Lee Kitts on July 28, 2010 - 1:45 pm

    I’m sitting here at my computer sniffing and sobbing at your words. It’s all so touching somehow, and it’s true for all of us: what we want more than anything in life is real connection and I can see that that’s what’s happening for you. And we see it over and over. In extreme situations folks rise to their highest selves and display grace and love and goodness. I’m so sorry you lost your friend, dear. And I’m glad that angel was there for you. You’ve always had those. Think back.
    I’m relieved to see you are thriving. Seems like you’ve turned a corner since your last message. And you look beautiful. And happy. I love you. Lee

  5. #8 by Chris Pergola on July 29, 2010 - 9:52 pm

    I find everything you have to say about life is along the same line as I have been thinking lately. It is nice to know that there is someone else who is going through some of the same internal struggles as me. Its great to see you learning so much about yourself and about what is really important in life. Reading your blog has given me the understanding that we are always learning and expanding our view. I feel like I should have everything figured out by now but I don’t think it is possible to have ‘everything’ figured out for your life. I love you Hope and I am excited to the next time I get to see you.

    • #9 by Karyn on July 30, 2010 - 10:08 am

      Chris, I will be 50 years old this year and my life is still a work-in-progess. Enjoy every moment of every day, take nothing for granted, and you’ll be fine. Love you lots Crip.

  6. #10 by Brett on July 31, 2010 - 8:02 pm

    Hope – pretty cool and a little crazy what you’re up to. Maybe more than a little, but totally worth it.
    Brett

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