Archive for category Appalachian
(*Credit Lindsay Mound. From http://aesthetichandymaam-blog.tumblr.com/)
THE SOUNDS OF KILLINGTON
A mouse is a wee morning monster
A fly passing by is a semi
Sudden flapping like machine guns
A wet leaf the nose of a ghost dog at my feet
A tree bending about to fall,
but held up by the living is
a squeaky door
a metal sign
a rocking chair
old woman groaning
a cat’s meow.
sqeaking its way to the end with every
Fall is here.
ckrk-ck-ck-ck-ck-ck-k-k-k-k-k–crrrrrAAAAck! BtchAM!! Thump!
You never know when a tree or a branch will fall. And they come fast, out of nowhere. The way an apple falls; as if the earth has been pulling them to itself ever since its life began.
When I’m alone in the woods and these sounds are all I hear the mind fills in the blanks. It’s hard to feel alone with all this racket! It’s hard to feel at peace with all this fear so easily stirred up. I’m learning that things often aren’t as scary as they seem, it’s the fear that’s terrifying.
We walked into Vermont after the White Mountains of New Hampshire. It was like a dream: Soft trail, few–if any–rocks, paths through meadows filled with wild-flowers and sometimes cows. But something shifted when we started climbing Killington. There was a stillness in the air, although the trees were moving. The hills seemed densely covered with new birch trees, and yet you could almost see right though them to the sky above. I noticed the strangeness of this place even before she screamed.
After staying with a Christian hippy commune (called The Twelve Tribes) in Rutland, Vermont we got back on the trail and walked a few short miles to the Churchill Shelter, the first one after the road. It was a typical AT shelter: Three-sided log structure with one large platform big enough for about seven people. We stayed up much later than usual, talking about food and music and politics. And we were the only people in the shelter that night, three girls and one dog.
I snapped my eyes open in blackness to the sound of the most terrifying scream I have ever heard, the kind of scream you only hear in movies, the kind of scream that wants to turn back time to say “it” isn’t so. It was a sound only suited for someone who has just been cut in half. It came from the other side of the shelter and lasted the length of her breath. Immediately I asked, “What is it?” That was all I needed to know. Give me understanding. Tell me the cause of what is happening, then I will know how to respond. At first I thought, “It could be an animal of some kind that maybe startled her in her sleep. If not that maybe we are under attack! A terrible person is in the shelter with us. But the dog isn’t barking and there are no other sounds. Maybe it is an evil spirit! A monster of some kind has got Sissy Hankshaw and any minute it is going to do to me whatever it is doing to her!” Again, I asked simply, “What?” In response she screamed again. The same terrible, raw, energetic scream. You could hear her vocal chords cracking. Two screams, no words. This was most terrifying. Whatever had her also had her words. It had to be really bad. This was the end. I was next. Not wanting to attract the attention of the eviscerating monster, I curled into a ball in the dark and waited for it–whatever it was–to end.
Wren sat up straight and put on her light and I peeked my head out of the bag. Someone asked me, “Where are you?” “I’m right here. What the hell is going on?” Sissy said it was just a nightmare and she was sorry. She didn’t know what had happened, but suddenly felt herself wake up in total blackness (but still within her dream) not knowing where she was. She heard someone (herself) screaming and screamed again in fright. The dog was sitting clear outside of the shelter shaking from fear. Anyone (or anything) within a few miles of the shelter would have heard those screams echoing off the rocks; and that scared me too. The sound of her screams played again and again in my head until her scream became my scream and I forgot what it sounded like to begin with. Even now I can’t really recall the sound, perhaps because I’ve never heard anything like it before and I hope I never do again.
The next day was just as eerie. At the top of Killington Peak was an old lodge with boarded up windows and pictures of young, dead men on the walls.
After the night before, we obviously weren’t sleeping here. So we made lunch. Just as soon as we boiled the water there was a BABABABABABABAAAAAA!!!! outside and Mable-the-Dog started barking ferociously. I said I would be the brave one to go investigate. I followed the dog as she pursued something and barked the hair on her back straight up. I looked and saw a huge bird puffing itself up about twenty feet away. I thought it was a turkey. In my sternest voice possible I said, “Mayble, SIT”. Because she’s a good dog, she obeyed and I held her to let the birds pass. I said, “coooo coooo coooo cooo. It’s okay little birdie, you can go. coooo cooooo coooo”. Did I mention I speak birdie. Anyway, the bird de-puffed itselfand walked cautiously on. As did its bird-wife and bird-son-in-law and bird-daughter. The whole bird-family walked by, maybe returning from the bird-grocery store. Twenty-seven birds in all–grouse as I later learned–passed us, grey and mauve with blue and white-tipped feathers and long beaks. Mayble and I sat and watched, astonished.
Had those birds come in the night, I would certainly have reasoned they were mountain-demons that cared only to disembowel me. My mind could not assume they were a family of beautiful creatures trying to make a decent living. And how could it? This kind of thinking couldn’t save me from mountain-demons or monsters or beasts, no matter how unlikely they are. The animal-mind is alive and well, here to shield me from possible danger! But which is worse, living with the constant fear of attack or (not likely) being attacked? I can’t change it with philosophy; but I have learned that sometimes the sounds of Killington aren’t what they seem.
The Slowest Roller Coaster
I was standing on the subway platform last night—it must have been on the A, C, E line at Penn Station, because I had just come from Hartford, and before that Springfield, and before that the mountains– when a blue balloon floated past my leg toward the tracks, and running after it a little boy. I had a big backpack on at the time, and so I used my foot to kick the balloon back to the platform, before I realized there was someone chasing it. The blue balloon bounced off of the little boy so quickly that he kept on running toward it. It’s hard to catch a balloon. Keeping the yellow line at the edge of the platform in view, so as not to lose my balance, I grabbed the little boy by the shoulder with my right hand, and scooped the balloon toward us with my left. It all happened very quickly. At that point, he looked me in the eye and I saw him for the first time: He must have been about four, Asian, short, dark hair, and a big smile. He had no idea. He was just happy to have his balloon back.
I believe every action I’ve ever done led up to this point, for this reason. I can’t help but wonder what would have happened if I hadn’t been standing on that platform at that exact moment. I believe I hiked 700 miles from Maine through Massachusetts for this boy and his balloon—and for his mother, and his ancestors, and his future children, and the innocence of everyone around us. I suppose that makes me a fatalist. And some would say that means I have to deny free will. I wish I could deny free will; life would be much easier that way.
I feel my will like a fire in my throat. Often it seems to consume me and I find myself lost in cities I can’t pronounce, or throwing up in train privies, or beating on animal skin drums behind used car dealerships. Some of my friends really do think I’m crazy, and I can see their eyebrows furrow a little as they try to understand why I do the things I do. They say words like “extreme” and “unpredictable”. And a few–who do not like these words and their possibilities–have decided it’s safer to not be my friend, and honestly, I can’t blame them. I can’t blame anyone. I am at the mercy of a will that is bigger than my mind, and somehow connected to my heart.
If you’ve ever seen the movie “Donnie Darko” you can see what I’m trying to convey: A fluid and invisible force that emanates from our center and pulls us toward our desires, whether we wish to go or not. Sometimes mine splits into a dozen different streams: Appalachia, New York, New Mexico, California, France, South America, Montana, Canada. I want to be everywhere at once. It is motion that I crave, and stillness that I fear.
Every September of my childhood my dad and I went to the New Mexico State Fair. He would give me a few tickets, and wait for me as I went on the rides. I loved the ones that strapped you in, turned you upside down and whirled around. I loved screaming at the top of my lungs on these rides, ever though I was never really scared. The best ones took you inches from the pavement at top-speed, and yanked you back up to the sky where you could see, for a brief moment, the Sandia mountains miles away. My father close one minute, and looking up at me, ant-like the next. My dad would only ride the bumper cars and Ferris wheel with me.
I hated the Ferris wheel: The pause at the top, the gentle tilting of the chair, the slow rotating up, and descending down. It made me sick. The motion felt more intense, perhaps because each motion demanded more attention, contrasted with the stillness, taunted me because I couldn’t ignore it. I passionately dreaded the moment when my dad looked at me imploringly, wanting us to ride the Ferris wheel together. Each and every time I got so scared that I had to ask the operator to let me off. When I was older I even tried to ride the kiddie Ferris wheel. I couldn’t do it. I remember how the operator’s eyes rolled and he laughed as he let me, at fifteen years old, off the ride. Luckily, I never had to see him again, nor did I have to sit up there and tilt, slowly back and forth.
This roller coaster is rapidly aging me. Lately it feels like I live an entire lifetime in one day. I find myself saying to myself, “I wonder where I will sleep tonight?” This morning I found myself saying “Good morning” to everyone I passed on Broadway—not the Broadway of Manhattan, but the Broadway of Brooklyn: The Broadway of elevated trains, automobile bass and chicken bones cracking underfoot. The Broadway with no birch trees. The Broadway that doesn’t smell like campfire. The Broadway I expected to never see again.
“Mornin’ dah-ling. You have a nice day.”
“Well, good afternoon!
“Is it that late already?!
This is how you don’t get destroyed in Brooklyn. You say good morning. You say “good morning” and hope the people of these streets remember you in the evening. Manners are very important. I know. I’ve talked to kids who have mugged someone more “cause she was a stuck-up bitch” than for any other reason. As I greeted the five or six people I passed on the street this morning, their faces looked as surprised as I felt to be there.
This morning I woke up in Brooklyn; yesterday morning I woke up in a seedy hotel room in Agawam; the morning before that I snapped my eyes open on the floor of a pottery studio in Great Barrington. It goes on like this for the last three months. Every morning a new home.
Every day a new ride. Always praying I won’t break down.
* * *
I couldn’t look at my backpack anymore. The words “foodbag”, “shelter”, and “powerbar” made me want to scream. I wanted to wake up in the morning not freezing or wet. I wanted to wear a pair of jeans. I wanted to know that I would live tomorrow saying more than a few “hellos” and “goodbyes” to more than a few people. I lost all my motivation. I didn’t care anymore. I would live here, in Great Barrington, the last town I had traveled through after walking almost 700 miles. My invisible force did not go the direction of the Appalachian Trail. It didn’t go anywhere. It was still and that was terrifying. So, I asked the operator of my lofty goals to let me off.
I found myself in a hair salon, wearing a pair of jeans, drinking a latte. Staring into the mirror, I didn’t recognize myself, but reason that this is okay, right? Because who are we anyway? There is no self. That is what the Buddha taught. So, I will speed around changing myself in deference to this truth until I get dizzy and fall down. But this is just an escape. This is not exactly what Buddha meant. We can at first only see the no-self in stillness. The truth we see in stillness can indeed be terrifying.
It’s more terrifying than putting your life in the hands of a stranger who says, “I’ve never done this before. I can’t see what I’m doing.”
This is exactly what the grey-haired man in the orange vest told my friend and me as we sat, stranded in the rain on the side of the road. I had only owned that car for seven hours and this was the second time it broke down. In an effort to escape the beautiful monotony of hiking, I bought a car from a used car dealership for four thousand dollars, which happened to be a quarter of my entire life-savings.
“Hello, Car Kraft, this is Mike, how can I help you.”
“Hi, I’m passing through Great Barrington and I’m trying to get back to New York City. I’m interested in the Jetta, but I don’t have a car to come see you. Can you drive the Jetta to me so I can test-drive it?”
I knew at the time that this was an absurdly unreasonable request, but hey, you never know, some people are kind and accommodating. Some people are also hear things differently.
“Hello, Car Kraft, this is Mike, how can I help you.”
“Hi, I’m in Great Barrington right now. I don’t know anyone here so no one will know if you screw me over. I need a car right now; I don’t care if it’s a piece of shit because I just want to drive to New York City as soon as possible. Can you drive the Jetta to me so I can test-drive it?”
“Hi, well, normally we don’t do things like this, but we want to help you out and we have to bring some titles over to Pittsfield anyway, so maybe we can have Miranda swing through Great Barrington so you can see the car.”
Hey, I’m nobody’s fool. I’m from New York City, baby. I’m gonna be smart about this. I tell Miranda that we’re going to drive to Stockbridge to have “my mechanic” look at the car. I sense some tension in her voice, since she didn’t expect this. But we drive there and talk about mundane things like the weather, and our favorite drinks, and where I’m from and where she’s from. Tony fits us in about twenty minutes after we arrive. He concludes that the engine is sound, the car needs two new wheel bearings (whatever those are), an axel something-or-other and new tires. He also mentions that the muffler is rusted and will need to be addressed “sometime in the future”.
“But overall, it’s a good little car for the price.”
Great, just what I wanted to hear. We drive an hour back to Car Kraft (why do they have to misspell Craft?) and I deliver my mechanic’s report. They say it will take a day to fix all these things. “Sinz ju in taon a natha night, lez go ow fo drinks”. Miranda has a beautiful accent. She is from Guatemala, a soothing mixture of fire and earth. Total Woman.
After a couple drinks at the local pub, we drive back to Car Kraft. There is a full deck with Tiki torches in the back, and a river down below. This is where the people of Car Kraft come to party. A few minutes later the owners–two young dudes–show up, each with a case of Stella Artois in their hands. I only plan on having one or two, at most.
Fast-forward two hours.
“Heeeeyy!!! Looka her!! She got rhythm!”
Yeah baby! I can shake the Native-American rain-stick like no other gringa! I can also play a few chords on the guitar, even though it’s missing a string! I can sing backup on the Karaoke machine to songs I don’t know and I can dance! This is what the Appalachian Trail is all about: Going with the flow. Meeting people in strange places, partying by the river, buying used cars. Bonding.
It starts raining, so we go inside. Rolling across the floor in leather swivel chairs, toasting to “the journey”, breaking up the weed on at-a-glance desk calendars. Here’s to new cars and to new friends. Suddenly Mike says, “Hey, you guys wanna go in the other room and just feel the energy flow through us.” Now normally I would say, “No, I don’t want to go in the other room and just feel the energy flow through us. I can feel the energy just fine right here, thankyouverymuch”. But we’re all wearing cowboy hats and he is clearly married, as I can see by the thick gold wedding band on your his ring finger. And as for the other guy, he’s practically sexless. Plus, there are two other women with me, so the two are outnumbered. So, considering these conditions, “Yes, I do want to go in the other room and feel the energy flow through us”.
Things suddenly felt very critical. We’re getting spiritual. Do we bring the beer? Do we keep our cowboy hats on or off? Do we take off our shoes? Yes, let’s take off our shoes. Bring the beer and keep the hats on if you want to.
Cue sitar music. Seriously, that’s what Mike put on.
“Okay”, sexless guy says, “Do we want to separate the boys from the girls?”
“Nah”, Mike says, “Let’s just be natural”
We sat in a circle on the rug.
Mike: “Okay, let’s put our hands out, but not touching.”
A few “oohs” and “ahs” escaped someone’s lips. I felt nothing, but thought the whole thing was rather sweet.
“Okay, now let’s all put our hands in the middle one on top of the other”, Mike-the-conductor” says, “and just lift them up a little so they’re not touching.”
“Waouw! Iz like the enerjee eez jus flowink through me!”
I still felt nothing and hoped it would be over soon. And thankfully, after everyone got a head massage, it was. Now we could all relax. The official spiritual event had happened. Where did I leave my beer?
* * *
I slept in my cowboy hat. Miranda came to get us in our “new” car at eleven the next morning. All the repairs had been done and we just had to go back to the dealership, aka party-central, to sign the papers. An hour or so later I was on the road in my new ride! Soon I could pack up my things in the City and then drive home to the Land of Enchantment! An hour or so after that I was back at my mechanic.
“Well, it looks like your exhaust blew. You better drive back to the dealer and have them fix it.”
I wasn’t mad or angry. This is probably just a fluke. After all, we had a spiritual experience together. We jammed out, we held hands; these people wouldn’t try to jip me. But I had to put on my angry face nonetheless, lest they think I’m some kind of softie.
“Hey, I’m so sorry this happened”, sexless guy said, “follow me over to the muffler guy and we’ll get this fixed”.
I did. We waited together as he fixed the muffler.
“eez jus a little piece een tha middle. I cut it out an poot a new peez een. Half-hour.”
Sexless guy apologized to me over and over again. He said he was embarrassed and that this just happens sometimes. “Hey, cars break, ya know”. I tried my best to be stern and tough, but we ended up hugging it out and a half-hour later I was back on the road. Six o’clock: Time to start driving back to the city so I can get there before it’s too late.
Wooga wooga, rattle, Boom!
This cannot be hugged out! This is fucked up! I’m shaking. I can’t believe this is happening.
A few expletive-filled phone calls later, my friend Sissy Hankshaw and I are speaking with the old man driving the tow-truck who states, “I can’t really see what I’m doing. I’ve never done this before”. Awesome. I’ve never ridden in a car as it’s being towed! This is a first for both of us. How sweet. Should I call you in the morning?
We rode back to the dealership, my fourth time there in less than 24 hours, staring at the back of a tow truck with a bumper sticker that read: “It’s ok to have too much fun”. This was not my idea of fun, yet I tried my best to observe it all as part of the shooting-star will. Officially made an idiot of myself, by myself.
This ride might be going too fast. I can feel the bile in my stomach, my chest tensing, my head spinning. Now, in a strange city without a car, I wonder where I will sleep tonight.
* * *
Mike–CEO, CarKraft Inc.–picked us up in the lot. It was raining and dark. He refunded my money and drove us to a hotel, which in addition to a rental car for one day, he paid for. Staring through the window of the rental car, I found myself crying like a baby as I watched them walk away. Sissy Hankshaw and her/our dog Mable were back on the trail—the beautiful Appalachian Trail. Mable had her little blue backpack on, and through tears I saw her looking back at me, as she always does, waiting for me to catch up. I waved my hand and told her to go on. I got in the car and watched them disappear.
“I should get back on the trail. But I have to return this rental by noon. Maybe I’ll go back to Great Barrington. I made friends there. They told me they need a roommate–artist types. No, I’ll get a train to New York City. I miss the trail. I love the trail. Why am I here? Where am I going?”
I drove faster than I should have through winding route 20. First going east, then going west, the red and orange leaves fluttering out of the way as they do in car commercials, when zero miles-per-hour meets eighty. I really thought I might get back on the trail. My will kept turning the car around as it went in one direction and then another. At this moment I felt truly insane. Could I really abandon this endeavor after coming so far? How could I get back on the trail now that I had to return this rental car to the Connecticut airport? I was confused, and angry with myself.
“I’ll finish it up next year as a Northbounder, when there are more people on the trail, more daylight and more warmth. I wouldn’t have been able to finish this year anyway without doing 25 miles a day everyday. That’s no way to live. I want to enjoy it.”
These are the excuses I make for getting off the ride. It’s too slow, too terrifying. I’ll try again another time.
And maybe I truly will. I won’t do it to prove anything to myself or to tell people that I’ve done it. I’ll do it for the same reason I started doing it: For the trees. To see ‘Merica! That is, if I’m meant to do it. There might be another boy chasing a balloon who needs me somewhere. I’ll go to him.
By the way, my petite partner Sissy Hankshaw, whom I met in Maine, completed all 2,175 miles of the Appalachian Trail, periodically in snowshoes.
Walking the trail taught me to let go of my preconceptions, to stop trying to control all of my experience. Life is much richer this way. Even though I’m now in the biggest city in the United States and far from the birch trees and limestone rock faces, I still feel like I’m on the trail, At the mercy of fate, blowing any which way. I’m still dizzy from this ride. I’m still homeless. Going from the woods to New York City can be traumatizing, but it’s no Ferris wheel, that’s for sure.
I sold my couch for twenty bucks. I got fifteen for the desk, and seventy-five for my dumbek. The process of putting my whole life in a bag less than fifty pounds started in New York City, on craigslist. After living in the City for eight years my inner wild cried out. The wilder-ness within me ordered: “Get out! Get out! Get out!”. I needed to be outside, I mean, real outside, not the outside of streetlamps and traffic sounds—not the outside that feels like inside even though it’s outside. I decided I would hike the Appalachian Trail: 2,175 miles from Maine to Georgia, alone.
Plato described vision as the light within our eyes meeting the light of sun outside our eyes. It was the process of attraction, even entropy that allowed humans to perceive. I always liked this explanation. Although medicine has come a long way in 2,400 years, this theory reassures me that like will find like, that the forces of nature are forever moving toward one another, and creating amazing things in the process. The wilderness within me had to be united with the wilderness outside of me. This could explain why I felt absolutely compelled. My friends said they would miss me. My boyfriend begged me not to go. And my family feared for my safety. I couldn’t apologize; I felt like I didn’t have a choice.
* * *
Rob Bird opens his home to hikers of the Appalachian Trail. He calls his home, “The Birdcage”. An older man of about 60, with wire-framed glasses and a cigarette perpetually glued between his fingers, he looks at you with the eyes of a father. An album of the hundreds and hundreds of hikers that pass through his house sits on his coffee table. He offers hikers anything and everything they need, for free. He considers you family once you enter his home, and to people away from their families for five to seven months hiking a trail 2,000 miles long from Georgia to Maine, this means a lot.
Between acoustic serenades and root-beer floats in his dream-catcher clad kitchen he told me that tradition is important. I nodded my head to offer my most enthusiastic agreement, “Oh yes, very important.” I assume he is referring to cultural, religious or family tradition in general. Not so. Rob Bird has a specific tradition in mind. “Don’t forget to moon the turnpike when you cross it. It’s tradition.” Not having mooned anybody since the Wendy’s drive-thru at least ten years ago, I’m not sure I still have it in me, but nevertheless, I promise him I will keep tradition alive.
* * *
And keep it alive I did. The Appalachian Trail crosses right over the Massachusetts turnpike. It’s an odd contrast. Nature vs. Civilization. In an effort to work up the nerve for this trick, I interpreted this tradition as a battle cry against everything the turnpike stands for: industrialization, the subjugation of nature for profit, urban sprawl. As I bared my white cheeks to the drivers passing by, an older woman with grey hair simply waved. I didn’t even get a semi-truck honk. I expected shocked faces and angry glares. Maybe these commuters were used to brazen hikers revealing themselves in broad daylight. I suppose this means the tradition is alive and well. Feeling I served my duty and thoroughly satisfied with myself, I continued on, Upper Goose Pond cabin was just a few miles away.
After mooning the Massachusetts turnpike I found the bird, a hawk. It lay on the trail, one wing spread out and the other tucked underneath, it’s eyes open, it’s feathers untouched. Dark brown, light brown, white and black—so that it blends in with the dirt and leaves and rocks, but strangely off somehow, horizontal camouflage—no, not dead, not lying there like that. I almost missed it, almost walked on by. Yet my vision sensed that something was off. Your senses get heightened after a while among the trees.
I wasn’t sure how long it had been there or if it was even dead. Should I bury it? Should I move it off the trail? Should I take it and use every part of it so that nothing is wasted? I must have stood looking at it and photographing it for a half-hour. I walked away. I walked back. I walked away again. I walked back again.
At the crossroads of the Appalachian Trail and some side ski trail in Massachusetts, I gathered the hawk with a plastic bag that I then put in another trash bag normally used as an improvised waterproof backpack cover. These I tied to my blue backpack and hurried on, two-pounds heavier.
The caretaker sat on the porch of the red, wooden cabin completing a crossword puzzle as the sun set over the lake. Not wanting to disturb her, but needing a place to sleep that night, I introduced myself: “Hi, my name is Hope. How are you? I have a dead bird tied to my backpack. Is there a place I could cut it up and such that would be out of the way?”
Her eyebrows furrowed and a mixture of fear and confusion swept across her face. Surely she must have thought I was crazy. Crazy: maybe, insensitive: definitely not. To help ease her mind I offered up as an explanation: “I’m a biologist and I found a dead hawk on the trail, so I decided to take it with me to study it”. Although not exactly true, I am a student of life.
Her fear transformed itself into relief and later genuine intrigue. She’d never seen a dead hawk. Neither had I. She directed me to a tent platform a way off from the cabin and asked that I just make sure to clean up afterward. “My husband will be interested in this; do you mind if he comes around to look?” Of course I didn’t, although I had no idea what I was about to do.
Ideals are often much easier to flaunt than to actually live by. I had the idea to forsake every comfort of modern living for the experience of walking across the country. I had the idea to become one with nature. I had the idea to pluck a hawk. It turns out none of these things are easy.
In my mind a bird’s feathers are delicate things, so delicate that they sometimes even fall out, like the stray hairs on my jacket and floor. I didn’t think it could be that hard to pull each feather out one by one. But, as I discovered, there is no such thing as a “part” of an animal, the feathers are not separate from the muscles and bones of the wings, and the wings are not apart from the belly and back. And all of these things, of course, connect to the neck and head—the neck and head that moved toward me with every yank and pull. Although I knew this bird was not alive, there was some idea deep within me that felt as if the bird were not dead, was sensitive to what I did with its body. Can that be called superstition?
I burned a sage smudge I had with me—from another bizarre set of circumstances up in Maine—as I cut off its head. With the head off and buried, it was much easier to remove the feathers, which isn’t saying a lot for it was still difficult. Each feather had to be pulled at the same angle with the same degree of force in relation to its place on the hawk. Once I discovered this exact angle, the feathers did in fact come off more quickly. It was almost the same motion I used when harvesting cherry tomatoes in California. There is a little joint, a crook that allows for flexibility and quick release. They don’t teach you this kind of stuff in school.
The first thing I’d planned to do was make a dream catcher for Rob Bird, the man who had been so kind to hikers for so many years. I had a bag full of beautiful feathers and I wanted to share them with my friends; but my friends and my family remained hundreds and thousands of miles away from me. I had gone into the wilderness to look for home, when I knew where home was all along.
* * *
Welcome to ISO home.
I hope you’ll find here lots of entertaining adventure stories.
Below are the original stories that started this blog, about a 700-mile walk on the Appalachian trail from Maine to Massachusetts.
Hope you enjoy!
The hardest part about thru-hiking this trail isn’t going days without showering or eating mac ‘n cheese every night or carrying everything on my back. The hardest part is sleeping in a different place every night. It’s funny because I came out here to find a new home, a place with fresh air and community where I might want to put roots down. I’m still looking for that, but it means I have to go every night feeling homeless and unknown. Well, not every night. There have been people along the way who have offered me everything I need without asking anything in return. They have invited me into their homes and called me family, they’ve offered me jobs, they’ve folded my underwear. It’s truly amazing to discover that there are so many people in the world who just want to offer support and comfort. Of course it’s important to watch out for the crazies; I’m not stupid. But it’s also crucial never to underestimate a person’s potential for goodness, thru and through.
Chet West runs a hiker hostel called “One Step at a Time” in Lincoln, New Hampshire. He’s a fire sign, an Aires. He was a firefighter, as was his father before him. He was until he got blown up by a camping stove. As he was pumping the fuel canister, friction built up inside and caused a spark that ignited the fuel. He burnt his lungs to a crisp as he inhaled the fire. Now he is in a wheelchair and can’t walk more than a few steps at a time while leaning against a wall. He is also legally blind, so he can’t read or see people’s faces in detail. That was nine years ago, in September of 2001. The doctor’s had to decide whether or not to keep him on life-support, as the victims of the terrorist attack in New York City inundated the hospital. He flatlined seven times and they revived him seven times, more than any other patient in the history of that hospital.
After the accident he opened his home to hikers on the Appalachian Trail. He provides bunks, showers, laundry, phone and bicycles for free. All he asks is that people help him maintain the house by cleaning up things he can’t see, taking out the garbage, etc. He is one of the most generous, peaceful and kind individuals I have ever met. I must admit that I developed a bit of a crush on him, despite his disability. The doctors were amazed that he survived, let alone that he recovered so much so quickly. He still plans on walking again someday. So far he has taken 36 unsupported steps. Watching him walk the little that he can I have no doubt that he will walk again. For now he gives everything he can to support people who make walking their six-month mission. I know that as we walk we send our steps to him.
As I stepped into Dalton, Massachusetts I read a sign tacked to a message board that said: “Sobos, go to the Shell gas station and ask for Rob Bird. Laundry, showers, beds! Free!” On the other side of the message board I read this:
Hmmmmm…what to do, what to do? This is the state of our existence: Either we trust the sign that tells us there is a stranger who really wants to offer you free showers, laundry and beds, or we trust the other sign that says, “We eat people!”. It’s really a matter of what you want to believe. I believe that generosity is greater than cannibalism.
When I walked into the gas station I started to speak, but the attendant just nodded his head and picked up the phone.
“Hi. Yeah, we got another one down here. Okay, bye.”
Apparently, this guy is used to random people walking into the station looking for free amenities. I waited no more than five minutes. An older man rolled up to the station in a blue minivan, cigarette blazing in his hand.
“I heard you were coming. Where is the other girl?”
Just as someone on the trail told me about Rob, someone told Rob about me and my friend Sissy. Who needs a cell-phone with connections like these?
We drove up the road and picked up Sissy (and Mable-the-Dog), where she was just coming off the trail and into town. He told us that he owns the Shell station, his second career after being a policeman in Dalton for thirty-five years. We soon arrived at his house–known as “The Birdcage”–only a short distance from the station. He showed us around the house and then he said, “If you have any laundry, I’ll take it.” Shocked and amazed, Sissy and I handed this kind man our dirty laundry. The next morning our laundry–thanks to Nancy–was arranged thusly:
After we showered he showed us the guest book for this year: A photo album with pictures of every single hiker that came through the house that year, with their name, address, and start date in the bottom, right-hand corner and a note of gratitude on a post-it beside the photo. There must have been seventy people in that album. He has nine other albums for every year he has been supporting hikers. We sat around the kitchen table with him and his good-friend-since-first-grade, Nancy. The two weren’t married; they had been through their share of marriages and funerals for a lifetime, as they put it. But it felt like sitting with mom and dad nonetheless. These two smoked like chimneys and emphasized that (in a raspy, years of chain-smoking voice), “Whether we liked it or not we were family”.
“If you ever need anything from here to Kent, you just call us up and we’ll come and get you! Now, I mean it. Don’t think I’m just saying that. Don’t take no shit from nobody, darling, or you’re gonna have to answer to me. Got it?”
This is the tough-love Massachusetts is best at. I came to love Massachusetts after this, if for no other reason than you can scream “Fuck you!” at the top of your voice in a crowded bar and no one even turns their head. They are full of love and a little rough around the edges. A few hours later, Rob came out to the yard and snapped my photo. After that, I was in the family photo album–no longer a stranger.
There have been so many others along the way. An old woman named Rita invited me into her home for a piece of chocolate cake.
Don drove me around for an hour looking for a gear shop. Arla and Chris let us stay in their garage/game room for two nights. Kim Post and her family took us on a road trip to Brattleboro, VT. Brian drove us to the general store and gave us a handle of whiskey “for those chilly nights”. Amy lent us her car for the day while she and a friend went to the movies. Mike let us pick vegetables from his garden and then use his kitchen to cook dinner while sipping one of his finest wines. The list goes on and on. Even now, I write this blog from Cindy’s home in Great Barrington, while Sissy makes dinner and brings me cocktails. I feel so fortunate to be given so much so freely. It’s difficult because I know that tomorrow I will have to leave this beautiful home
and get back on the trail not knowing where I will sleep tomorrow night or the next. Coupled with the amazement at and gratitude for all the beautiful homes I’ve stayed in is a little bit of sadness at none of them being mine. It’s sort of hard to thoroughly enjoy these luxuries knowing how impermanent they are. But to me, everyday things like dinner and a bath is a luxury. It seems that when I deprive myself of things–good food, showers, a bed, a house–the experience of them becomes that much richer. Rather than renouncing worldly things by retreating into the woods, I want worldly things now more than ever. I think that when I get back to regular living I’m going to wax my legs, wear makeup everyday and become totally indulgent. Whether this turns out to be true or not doesn’t matter. Whatever I do, I will know that I am blessed just to have running water and electricity. Well, enough staring at this big-screen, brand new Macintosh computer, I’m going to go eat a homemade dinner with vegetables from the garden and then take a hot jacuzzi with a vodka tonic and a cigarette. 🙂 Here’s to roughing it! Cheers!
These days it seems as if every approach to diet and fitness is but a flash in the pan, a passing fad, a gimmick. You may be searching for a clear solution to the complex problem of nutrition, but instead find a seemingly infinite amount of books and websites, each claiming to contain the secret to success. How could anyone know where to begin? Well, search no more! Finally, a practical and easy solution for better nutrition, higher energy and increased muscle mass. If this sounds like something you’ve been seeking, read on!
Before breakfast: Pack your clothes, bed and food into a sack, 40-lb maximum
For breakfast: Say a prayer to the stove gods that your stove will work and boil 2 cups water for oatmeal and coffee/tea.
9 a.m.–10 a.m.: Lift 40-lb bag (1 rep) onto back, walk 2 miles (at variable grade), lift 2 5-ounce hiking poles (500 reps), take 40-lbs off (1 rep), change out of sweaty warm clothes, drink a litre of water, lift 40-lb back onto back.
10 a.m.–12:30 p.m.: Carry 40-lbs 2.5 miles up a mountain not of your choice, throw bag down, eat 2 Clif bars, a handful of nuts and a few slices of cheese (with or without crackers). Take break. Look around. Climb fire-tower if available.
1 p.m–4 p.m.: Lift 40-lbs onto back, drink another litre of water, walk/climb 6 miles, lift 5-ounce hiking poles (1500 reps), throw bag down, remove boots, ask self what you are doing with your life, sit down, look around, eat 1 Clif bar and some dark chocolate, stand up.
4:30 p.m.–7:30 p.m.: Lift 40-lbs onto back, consume 1 litre of water, walk 5-10 miles at fastest pace possible before the sun sets, lift 5-ounce hiking poles (2000–4000 reps), arrive at shelter or campsite, throw bag down, curse and/or sigh.
8:00 p.m–9:00 p.m.: prepare 2 cups of boiling water for mac ‘n cheese and hot chocolate. Roll out bed. Sleep.
Repeat for approximately 180 days through 14 states of the Union.
You’ll see results in no time by following this simple regimen. For example, your breasts (if you have them) may become smaller (which may or may not be a good thing depending on your sex) while your knees will swell and become larger. Although your feet may malfunction, the calf and thigh muscles will increase in strength. So, although you may not be able to walk normally, you will look great sitting down. In no time you will have six-pack abs, which should distract people from your hunch-back. Workout video forthcoming; until then, enjoy some random pictures.
So, I’m having a bit of writer’s block. This post probably won’t be the poetic, literary piece I want it to be; although I’m planning on telling you about a very interesting person named “Insane Duane”, pending photos. I think by this point my mind is no longer rambling to itself inside it’s dark cave, now it mostly just sings songs. I’ve gotten used to waking up with the sun and just walking until the sun nearly disappears. That’s my job right now: walking. I am a walker–Walker New Mexican Stranger, you might say. I thought this could be a clever trail name, but it is much too long.
People ask me my trail name before my real name. Of course, they are one and the same, but this is unusual and many people do not approve. I’ve met people self-named Doozy, Moonpie, Long-shanks, Ringleader, Big-Pace, Roadrunner and Google, just to name a few. I say, “Hello, magical rainbow poop-stain, I’m Hope.” And they say, “What a nice trail name.” Actually, I always have to explain that it’s my real name, but since it’s kind of “traily” I’m sticking with it. Then I say I am myself and feel very philosophical, but probably just come across as patronizing.
Anyway, so I’m not in Maine anymore. We crossed the state line about a week ago. Here is a (bad) pic:
Maine and New Hampshire are beautiful!!! I have to say, I’m going to miss the incredible views at the tops of some of these mountains. The White Mountains extend through Maine and New Hampshire. Mt. Washington is the tallest of the peaks at 6,288 ft. It is so popular that there is a road and even an old cog train that goes up to the top! It was strange to climb that big mountain and then see a bunch of overweight, pale tourists crowding around the summit sign only to drive back down an hour later. But that’s just me being arrogant.
Hiking in the White Mountains of New Hampshire has been a totally different experience, mainly because of the huts. There are a string of huts built by the Appalachian Mountain Club that cater to families and people visiting the White Mountains for a few days. They are small bunkhouses with a kitchen, dining room and bunk rooms. They range from $80–$120 per night, but us lowly thru-hikers aren’t expected to pay that kind of money–thank God! We can do work-for-stay! I worked in five huts along the way. Typically a hut won’t accept work-for-stay if you arrive before 4 and/or if there are more than 2 thru-hikers already accepted. If you are turned away you are sent to a different campsite a mile or more away at which you have to pay a fee. It’s difficult to “stealth camp” because most of the trail is above tree-line, which means it’s rocky and windy and without water; some people mangage to do it anyway though. Luckily, I timed my hikes so that I would arrive at the right hour and also practiced my desperate please-take-me-in-I’m-a-poor-girly-hiker look. It was a great experience, not only because I got to eat as much food as I wanted and sleep on the dining room table, but the kids who worked at the huts were really great too. Here are a few pictures of us at Carter Notch hut doing something called “shake-face”. As it implies, you shake your face so that it gets all loose and take a picture. Some of us are better at it than others. 🙂
Carter and Madison were my two favorite huts. I wonder if I will ever see any of these people again.
The Northbounders tell me that after the White Mountains the trail is a boring green tunnel. I wonder if it’s true. I think I will enjoy going into the towns. I just hope I have enough time! It’s already almost September and I’m still in New Hampshire. But the saying goes that I’ve done 20% of the trail and 80% of the work. So, naturally I’ll be able to go more miles each day and hopefully make it to Georgia by the early part of December. Oh no! I’m getting kicked off the library computer and I didn’t practice my please-let-me-stay-on-a-little-bit-longer face. Gotta run! A few more pics while I still can:
Things that excite me these days: The sound of highways, eating Pringles in a trailer, eating Snickers, eating ice-cream, hot-chocolate, summits, showers, and shaving my legs… oh! oh! and general stores! I never expected to take such pleasure in these things. Sometimes the best part of hiking the trail is “Going into Town”! It’s strange to see these reversals in myself. I left the city to get away from the sound of cars, constant noise and ringing bells; and yet, now I find these things bring a certain comfort. It’s not more than a couple days, however, when I realize that I’m going crazy and I need to get back to the woods.
This is the nature of our lives, isn’t it? We go up and down, up and down. I’ve decided to take a photo of when I finally get to the top. It makes all the dark valleys worth it.
I was talking with my new Women Friends! about this today. It seems that many people yearn for a return to a more primitive lifestyle, yet most of us don’t want to be extreme isolationists. Alexander Supertramp, the boy Krakauer wrote about in “Into the Wild” comes to mind. We’ve all felt that something today is unnatural. We’ve all wondered what it would be like to totally escape civilization. Because the way we are living is missing something. We’re walled in. The ingredients in our foods aren’t found in nature. (And yet, why is it that I just looooove Kraft “Mac ‘n Cheese?) We’ve moved too far away. But when I truly reject it all, I crave society and everything that comes with it. I crave the mere company of other people. The sound of cars signals food, warmth and safety. I can only conclude that the things we are used to are a part of us no matter how much we would like to reject them. We can reform the way we are living, but going to the extreme is ignorant of the reason civilization exists in the first place. It’s what makes us human, whether we like it or not. The truth is: It’s f***ing scary out there is the dark, dark woods. I don’t know why, but Adam ate the apple and we are forever separated from total harmony with nature. Maybe we can acknowledge the parts of our minds that are human and the parts that are not us–like a total rejection of nature– so that we can be without them.
There is a lot to see out there, like lots and lots of mushrooms! And I saw my second moose yesterday. I didn’t get a picture of it though, cause we were bonding and I didn’t want to scare it. 🙂 But mushrooms are braver than moose.
Did I mention?
While we’re on the subject, there are also lots of these amazing tree fungi. I thought is was “street art” or “trail art” at first.
And if you feel like a challenge there are also crazy fun ways to try and not slide down mountains! 🙂
And, believe it or not, there are some really great people.
Had a delightful chat with these here Northbound boys by the stream. It was good times.
Would you pick up someone who looked like this?
Rejected! Or just suffering from a stomach ache after eating a giant pickle and a blue sky soda. Bad choice.
When we got to the hostel tonight there was a Native American man playing the flutes on the porch. I snapped this pic secretly so as not to kill the mood.
He had lots of turquoise jewelry on and long black and grey hair. This calmed my heart and we all sat and listened for a long time. He told us about how he moved from Montreal to the Yukon, where he acted as head chef for the hunters. He chopped up everything. I’m sure this was only one of his many roles in life. When he was going to bed he turned to me and said, “Remember, always trust the animal”. I’m not sure what to make of it yet. I think I’ll take it into the woods and think about it for the next three days, as I go up and down and up and down.
The Bear Minimum
There is a moment of panic that arises sometime after breakfast, caused by the ever-new realization that you get to do it all over again. No, you cannot go back to bed. You have to put your bed into one of many bags. By now you know where every bag goes and what it’s used for: A bag for the bag, a bag for the pad, a bag for food, stove-bag, pan-bag, trash-bag, water-bag, baggy-bag. You won’t be returning to this breakfast nook ever again. A new (temporary) nook awaits you ten to fifteen miles away! It feels nice to know that everything I need is on my back, many bags in one big bag. I wonder about human need. What determines our needs? What do we really need and what do we only think we need?
In Millinocket, the first trail town, I sent home twenty-three pounds of stuff I didn’t need: long underwear, hat, hoodie, shorts. I had another shakedown a few days ago at Pleasant Pond Lean-To. I shared a shelter with 2 bearded and beaming Northbounders (NOBOs); they are at the end of their journeys. The packs they carried weighed twenty-five pounds and they encouraged me to try and shed as much weight as possible (not counting the weight I’ve already lost from hiking: 10 lbs). So, much like I did at the AT Lodge with Ole Man Paul, we went through my pack.
NOBO #1: Get rid of those food bags.
NOBO #2: And that carabeaner
NOBO #1: You could detach the top part of your bag and send that home.
NOBO #2: Basically, you want to think radical
Ok, I can do that. So when I hit the next town (Caratunk, population 177) I sent home a whole 2 lbs! It actually does make a difference when you’re hiking fifteen miles and climbing thousands of feet a day. It’s funny, I spend all sorts of money to buy stuff it’s gonna take all sorts of money to send home. This reminds me of the time I tried to check a futon bed as baggage at the airport for a two-week trip to NYC when I was 15. Live and learn, right? My bag now weighs thirty-three pounds (that includes about 3 days of food and a litre of water), which is pretty good I think.
After stopping in Caratunk (population 177) for some jalapeno poppers and a beer (and a soak in the hot-tub and a game of pool), we went on toward Stratton. The people I’ve been hiking with are good people. All guys so far, I’m praying some women will come along soon! 🙂
We had to take a little canoe across the Kennebec River. It is the only part of the entire AT with a moving white blaze.
The Pierce Pond Lean-To was amazing. It is a little three-sided shelter on the lake. We went swimming and I thought this might be the best summer ever. There is a man down the path who runs a sporting camp named Tim Harrison. He will make you 12 pancakes, eggs, sausage, coffee and juice for 10 bucks. We did that in the morning and headed south.
After this it was over the Bigelow range. These are the second highest peaks in Maine–the first being Katahdin, which ahem!, I climbed on the first day. 🙂
The Bigelows were amazing. Starting off at 1,760 ft they rise to 4,090 feet after seven miles, then dip down to 3, 850 feet and back up to 4,145 feet then back down to 1,350 feet–all within twelve miles. My knees were KILLING me. When I got to the top of the first peak, there was a girl-scout troop at the top. One of them took this picture.
When I passed the 2,000 mile mark (meaning I only had 2,000 more miles to go) I met “Pete from Maine”. This is how he introduced himself: “Let’s shake hands, we just passed the 2,000 mile mark. My name is Pete from Maine”. So, in the middle of the Bigelow mountain range we had ourselves a little celebration.
I should have taken a picture of him. He is about 5′ 6″, white hair and beard and bright, shocking blue eyes. I need to make it a point to take more pictures of the people I meet up here. There are so many good people. One lady, she called herself Playboy, left us some “Trail Magic”. Trail magic is an amazing thing. People who support hikers or have hiked themselves will leave treats for hikers. Playboy left us a cooler full of sodas and a box of Snickers and hot-chocolate mix. They were inside of little bags with hearts drawn on them. So many people, including myself, were concerned about my safety out here, but honestly, I’ve never felt safer anywhere in the world. Everyone I’ve met just wants to help me out in any way they can. Don’t worry, I’ll still be cautious and wary of people, but so far those I’ve come across have proven themselves to be extraordinary. It gives me faith in human nature. This is what I need. I think this is what we all need.
As I get rid of the things I can do without I come to know more and more what I am capable of. And as I get rid of the extra weight I become capable of more and more. I’ve come to need less as I realize I have to carry, or commit, to what I’m holding onto every moment. And what I really need, which is to know (not just believe) people are good, doesn’t weigh a thing. I found out today that my good friend, Ajeet Matharu, died yesterday in a car accident while in India. Sitting at a picnic table in Stratton, ME, I cried without reservation. A woman pulled up in her car and asked me if I was OK. When I told her why I was crying she got out of the car and hugged me. She held my hands and prayed with me. And just magically, she had a white candle and a Native American sage smudge with her. She gave these to me and told me to light the candle and sage and think about all the good qualities of my friend. She told me that the love I learned with him will never die. Then she got in her car and drove away. I needed that more than anything.
So onward I go, back into the woods tomorrow morning. I’ll be thinking about all of you, and about Ajeet. Life is so precious. We are so lucky to have today.